Bacalar, The Magic Lake of Seven Colors
Written by Lydia Jones
I'm lounging in a lancha, a little boat in the middle of the lake, and I'm counting blues. The motor is silent and I can hear nothing but the lapping of the water and the cries of seabirds. Counting blues is just about the most utterly relaxing thing I've ever done. Bacalar is the Lake of Seven Colors. They are all blues, from an electric turquoise to the deepest indigo. But what do you call all those blues in between? I think I'll count them all again…
The limestone content of the water is high so the sun reflects the sky. The bottom of the lake is white, making the water transparent and aqua blue. The colors change with the winds and the clouds. To get the full spectrum, catch the lake in sunshine. And you will not need Photoshop for your shots.
Above all, it is still tranquil, not overrun by crowds and large hotels. And there are other reasons to love this rustic destination. The town of Bacalar is a hippie gem on the lake shore; it was awarded the title Pueblo Magico (Magic Village). You can swim, paddleboard, kayak, fish, bike around, relax, eat, drink and be merry. Or just count blues. I can promise you an excellent time here. Small houses. Unpaved streets. Taco vendors. Little hotels on the lagoon. A fortress with cannon and views of blues. Locals sitting on the benches in the zócalo (main square) chatting and eating ice-cream. On Sunday night, there may be music in the square, along with a small artisan market. There's a public jetty just under the fortress where you can rent a lancha.
I discovered that the original Maya settlement was called b'ak halal, which means 'surrounded by reeds'. It was a fishing settlement and a trading port, founded by the Itzá dynasty. They controlled the canoe trade that circumnavigated the Yucatán Peninsula, carrying salt from the Gulf coast down to today's Belize and Honduras, and bringing back jade and other precious stones.
After the Spanish Conquest, a colonial settlement was built here in 1545 by Gaspar Pacheco, who called the village San Felipe de Bacalar. Soon afterwards, English, Dutch and French buccaneers turned Bacalar into a lawless trading outpost. The town was invaded and destroyed by pirates in 1642 (I found out that they even took all the Maya women with them) and not rebuilt until 1726. The fortress, built for defense, later served as an important outpost for the Spanish in the Caste War of Yucatán. In 1859 it was seized by Maya rebels (fighting the European-descended population), who held the fort until Quintana Roo was finally conquered by Mexican troops in 1901. You will meet the indigenous Maya descendants at every step, as they still live here and are famous for their friendliness and hospitality.
The geology of the lake is unique. The subterranean realm of the Yucatán Peninsula is composed of porous karst limestone, supporting the world's largest freshwater underground system. As a result, Bacalar has several cenotes located within the lagoon. These sinkholes feed the lake with fresh water and this is where you see the magic of changing colors, depending on the depth of each cenote and the lake around it. My lancha took me to the Cenote de la Bruja (Witch Cenote) where witches and shamans used to perform their rituals. I saw the witch's magic bubbles of water coming to the surface. It is also referred to as Cenote Negro (Black cenote), as it is 90m deep and truly black. Well, very dark indigo. Let's keep it among the blues. Cenote Azul is the same depth but true indigo, great for diving and family picnics. It's a separate lake on the surface, but its underground waters connect with the main lake.
Snorkeling and swimming are part of the boat trip, and they end up in the Pirate Canal. In the 1700s pirates used to come from the Caribbean (from Chetumal Bay), to take wood from Bacalar to repair their ships. The canal has shallow waters and a small island with a jumping platform. This is a romantic spot; I loved it. I also covered myself in white mud. It has a strong sulfur smell but it is marvelous for the skin. A great way to exfoliate and re-mineralize. Forget the beauty salon!
Today mangroves line the canal route. They are extremely useful as land builders and protectors from hurricanes. They filter the water, and are a feeding, breeding, and nursery ground for fish, shellfish and birds. A very productive ecosystem!
Bacalar lake has another specialty: stromatolites, one of the oldest structures on Earth. They are living layered rocks, formed in shallow waters by the growth of blue-green algae (cyanobacteria, primitive one-celled organisms). They are the most ancient fossils, and although rare nowadays, they might provide us with clues to how life evolved from very simple to more complex forms. Their formation likely altered the environment of our planet, leading to the accumulation of breathable oxygen and the evolution of multi-cellular life (including humans).While other species have risen and fallen over the course of history, stromatolites have persisted through time and still are found today in a few locations.
Bacalar is not just a natural beauty queen, but a heaven of slow pace and tranquility. Kick off your shoes, lie in the hammock, and reacquaint yourself with nature and idleness. And the meanings of blue.
From $1,600 USD / night